Ice Climbing Basics: How to Get Started

Ice climbing is a thrilling and challenging way to explore frozen vertical landscapes. If you’re looking to scale waterfalls or frozen cliffs, this guide will give you a solid foundation for getting started—and if you’re near Banff, you’re in one of the best places in the world to experience it.

Ice climbing has its roots in mountaineering and emerged as a standalone sport in the mid-20th century. Key innovations, like the introduction of front-point crampons and modern ice axes, made it easier and faster to ascend steep, frozen terrain. By the 1960s, climbers began exploring the vertical world of ice with lightweight, efficient tools, paving the way for today’s adventures.

"The beauty of ice climbing lies in its unique challenges. Every route is different, and the tools make it accessible for so many." – Monods Staff Member

Where to Ice Climb in Banff

Banff is a mecca for ice climbing, offering a mix of beginner-friendly and expert-level routes. Some popular spots include:

Johnston Canyon: Perfect for beginners, with easily accessible frozen waterfalls ideal for top-roping.
Lake Louise: Features iconic routes like Louise Falls, suitable for intermediate to advanced climbers.
Grotto Canyon: Close to Canmore, offering a range of routes and scenic beauty.
The Ghost: A remote area with challenging routes for experienced climbers.
Field, BC: Home to famous climbs like the Pilsner Pillar, just a short drive from Banff.

For beginners, taking a course or hiring a certified guide is essential. Local guiding companies include:

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures: Offers comprehensive courses for all levels.
Canadian Rockies Mountain Guides: Specializes in personalized ice climbing trips.
Alpine Air Adventures: Provides expert instruction and guided climbs.

"Taking a guided course was the best decision I made as a beginner. It gave me the confidence to explore more challenging routes." – Monods Staff Member

Essential Ice Climbing Gear

Ice climbing requires specific gear designed for icy conditions:

Ice Tools: Short, curved tools with sharp picks for precise placements.
Crampons: Rigid or semi-rigid crampons with front points for stability on vertical ice.
Mountaineering Boots: Insulated and rigid to securely attach crampons.
Ice Screws: Threaded anchors for securing ropes to the ice.
Helmet: Protects against falling ice and gear.
Harness: Designed for comfort and compatibility with ice climbing gear.
Layered Clothing: A moisture-wicking base layer, insulating mid-layer, and waterproof outer shell are essential.
Gloves: Thin gloves for climbing and insulated gloves for belaying.

Ratings and Difficulty Levels

Ice climbing routes are graded to indicate their difficulty:

WI (Water Ice): Grades range from WI1 (low-angle ice) to WI8 (vertical or overhanging, highly technical).
Mixed Grades: Indicated as M1–M12, for routes combining ice and rock climbing techniques.

These grades help climbers choose routes that match their skills and goals, ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience.

Tips for Beginners

Take a Course: Even if you have rock climbing experience, ice climbing requires unique skills.
Start Small: Practice on WI1–WI3 routes to build confidence.
Layer Up: Bring extra gloves and hand warmers to stay comfortable.
Check Conditions: Always check avalanche risks and weather forecasts.
Stay Hydrated and Fueled: Pack water and energy-rich snacks to maintain stamina.

Safety First

Safety is critical in ice climbing. Always climb with a partner and carry essential safety gear, including:

Avalanche Kit: Transceiver, probe, and shovel if climbing in avalanche-prone areas.
First Aid Kit: Include supplies for cuts, punctures, and hypothermia.
Headlamp: Essential for early starts or late descents in winter.

Stay updated on local conditions through Avalanche Canada and ensure you’re prepared for emergencies.

Overall Banff offers unparalleled ice climbing opportunities, from beginner-friendly routes to world-class challenges. With stunning frozen waterfalls and a backdrop of the Canadian Rockies, it’s an experience like no other. Visit Monod Sports in Banff to gear up and get expert advice for your next adventure.